a lull

between sets

sitting alone

in an empty lineup

nothing going through

my mind

as I rub the rails

of my flawless rusty

complete serenity

nothing but the surf

gently holding the rails

sitting alone

in an empty lineup

a lull


overcast,

salt in the air,

double overhead,

7'2" gun

empty line up,

unmanageable stoke,

run down the beach

cold, crisp ocean

splashes onto your rubber,

carry ur gun,

ur lifeboat,

ur get away

into the terrifying waters

stand

in a moment of hesitation...

can you handle it?

is it worth it?

without a single thought,

without a word..

run into ocean,

paddle deep

with unmanagable stoke

warm water

trickles down my face

rinsing the salt

from my body

for one moment

a smell

curls into my nose

my wetsuit

a salty, old, xcel

my eyes close

and I am

brought back to

that day

my first

surf session

brisk, foggy

summer morning

unbelievable stoke

trying on

suit after suit

until finally

the right fit

a salty, old, xcel

I close my eyes

as the smell

curls into my nose

not knowing

what lay ahead